Bird-watching in Sattal, Kumaon Hills

A recent visit to Sattal, in the Kumaon Hills, located about 20 kilomteres from Nainital, for bird-watching was most enjoyable. While there are a number of lodges in the town (more a large village), the accommodation at the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam was very central and not crowded at all. More to the point was the ease of access to some of the birding areas in and around Sattal. One of the notable features was the trusting nature of the birds in the neighbourhood. One Grey-winged Blackbird practically came upto my feet and was photographed with a 25 mm lens from about 4 feet away.

The White-throated Laughing Thrush was equally trusting (though laughing thrushes are generally quite suspicious of men) and came and sat on a branch of a tree near my head.

It is possible that a person sitting still does not usually disturb the birds and animals. Here a barking deer, normally a shy animal, stood at a distance of about 20 feet, without feeling nervous. This experience was quite enjoyable.

The Little Rann of Kutch - a "must" for bird-watcher's

The Little Rann of Kutch (or, LRK for short), in spite of its name, is not really in the district of Kutch, as generally understood. It lies to the south-west of Ahmedabad, much closer to the city of Dhrangadhra than to Bhuj, which lies much farther to the west, and which is taken to be the main city of Kutch. The greater Rann (which is close to Bhuj) and the Little Rann are more than 200 kms distant from one another and are located on either sides of the Gulf of Kutch. The LRK is about 130 kms from Ahmedabad and approachable via the towns of Viramgam and Dasada. There are a number of lodges and resorts around that area. Both the LRK and GRK are subject to incursion of salt water during the Monsoons as they are only about 10 to 12 metres above the mean sea level, and are centres for the production of salt by the simple process of evaporation.

Indian wild ass

Common Cranes in flight The terrain is completely flat in both places, with only the occasional low hillocks standing out against the horizon. But the greater Rann (near Bhuj) is more of grassland while the Little Rann has more of thorny bushes and trees and seveal medium to large water bodies. In consequence,there are more of both bushland birds and waders and other water birds in LRK; following them naturally come many of the raptors. Also to be seen in the LRK are fair numbers of Indian wild ass.

Flamingoes So, overall, a 2-3 days trip to the LRK would be well worth the while for a bird-watcher who would get a fill of a wide range of species to observe and photograph.

Vanghat - close to Corbett National Park

Many people visit Corbett Tiger Reserve each year and, it is certainly one of the premier wilderness areas in India. Perhaps not quite as many people know about Vanghat and, fewer still take the trouble to visit it. 

Vanghat is located about thirty five kilometres from the town of Ramnagar, itself accessible by a six-hour road or rail journey from Delhi, past the village of Mohan on the way to Marchula in the Kumaon Hills. 

The first sense of excitement comes with seeing the Ramganga River glittering like a streamer of light and winding its course through the high cliffs on either side of it. This excitement increases when one is walking with a guide about two kilometre along a footpath that clings to the hillside through scattered forests, where a ghoral, a Yellow-throated Marten,  a Yellow-billed Blue Magpie or a Kaleej Pheasant can be seen with equal ease. The alternative is to ford the Ramganga River in a 4-wheel drive vehicle at five places and to do the last stretch on a bamboo raft. 

Making the last stretch by bamboo raft

Cottages at Vanghat

A Brown Fish Owl close to the river

Grey-headed Tree pie in the campus

I took it easy this time, my fourth visit to Vanghat in twelve years: the intervening years had taken some toll. Sumantha Ghosh, in spite of his very heavy schedule, provided all the consideration and ensured all my comfort.  So in the end, I could just stand or sit anywhere in the campus and soak up the sun as it moved across the sky or listen to the sound of the  Ramganga River as it brushed past the black rock-face of the cliffs. In the process, I managed - without really trying -to see about 45 species of birds just within the Vanghat campus, including a pair of Kaleej Pheasants, a flight of Long-tailed Minivets and an unexpected bonus of a Rufous-bellied Niltava; Grey-headed Tree-pie seemed to have taken over the dining area, with a Blue Whistling Thrush keeping them company. The alarm calls of the kakar and of the sambar on the second evening on sighting the tiger that at times comes in to the neighborhood, was the icing on the cake.

Vanghat! Long may you continue to give this unalloyed delight to lovers of wildlife in India.