Deben Bhattacharya - ethno-musicologist par excellence

Songs are the spontaneous human expressions of joy, invocation, sorrow or longing. They are the repositories of human emotions and of diverse cultural histories. One person attempted all his life to collect these fragments of the human experience from the desert, hills and rivers and piece together a shared heritage. He was popularly known as "Deben: The gypsy from Varanasi". He was Deben Bhattacharya, born in December 1921 in a traditional Bengali Brahmin family in Varanasi where he studied in a traditional Sanskrit “tol”. After considerable vicissitudes he was able to travel to London and after odd jobs rose to become an associate producer of Indian music for BBC radio programmes. For the next fifty years he devoted his time and energy to recording the folk music of different countries, from Romania, to Jordan and Syria, Mauritania in North Africa to Rajasthan, Bengal, Assam and Bangladesh on the Indian Sub-Continent.

His area of interest and passion were the songs of the desert, hills and rivers. The range of the work of the late Deben Bhattacharya, as much as an ethno-musicologist as that of a humanist, may be understood from (a) some of his films, e.g. "The Cosmic Dance of Shiva", "Painted Ballads of India, Krishna in Spring", "Faces of the Forest - The Santals of West Bengal", "The Mirror of the Sky, 1969 (the songs of the BAULS of Bengal for UNESCO", "Love Songs of Vidyapati", etc.; (b) the audio recordings - Bedouins of the Middle East 1955-60; Sounds of West Sahara – Mauritania; Maqams of Syria, River Songs of Bangladesh, The Mirror of the Sky – Songs of the Bauls of Bengal and so on. He was one of the first to have recorded the songs of Bauls of Bengal in 1956/57 and of the chants at the Buddhist monasteries. The last Deben Bhattacharya has left an irreplaceable patrimony of intangible heritage of several nations. December 2021 marks the Centenary of Shri Deben Bhattachraya.

Further particulars of his works may be seen at -- https://www.sublimefrequencies.com/products/625798-deben-bhattacharya-paris-to-calcutta-men-and-music-on-the-desert-road https://mubi.com/films/la-musique-selon-deben-bhattacharya https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/859487.The_Mirror_of_the_Sky There are several other sites also featuring the work of the late Deben Bhattacharya. Fortunately his collection of about 400 hours of folk music recording and many thousands of photographs are now housed in the Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris.

Re-visiting Synagogues in Kolkata - and an interesting find

Several families of Sephardim Jews from Iraq came to the city of Calcutta shortly after the advent of the British in 1757. Soon thereafter synagogues came up for both for their weekly prayers, periodic religious functions such as the "Pass-over" and social events like solemnizing marriages. It was interesting recently to re-visit the Jewish synagogues still to be seen in Calcutta they were first visited - more than once - in 1985-86 when preparing for the book "10 Walks in Calcutta".

The above shows the cover of the Bengali edition of the book titled as "Paye Paye Kolkata" published in 2018 by Ananda Publishers. The first synagoue to be revisited was the Beth-el Synagogue that had been built in 1856. This community of Jews provided an important link between the Jews in UK and Europe with those in the Middle East, e.g. Iraq and Sysria and Palestine and those farther east in South East Asia, upto Hong Kong.

This picture shows the interior of the Beth-el Synagogue. What was quite interesting was the wine cellar below the synagogue where wine that was used for certain ceremonies and made in the proper Jewish tradition had been prepared. Some of the jars for holding this ceremonial wine were evidently (as seen from the motifs on the jar) imported from China, which was known for long for its fine ceramics.

Following the visits to the Synagoues, there was time to visit a nearby Christian church and it was interesting to see this gravestone dedicated to one Sarkis de Agvally, who was from Armenia and Persia and had passed away in February 1736. It was evident that the Armenian community was among first of those from Europe who had settled down in Calcutta for trade and commerce.

The picture of the gravestone is as above.

Manas National Park - A re-visit after 35 years

The Manas National Park in western Assam has many feathers to its cap. It was among the "first batch" of Tiger Reserves in India way back in 1973.It is one of the very few wilderness areas in India that has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, together with Kaziranga National Park (also in Assam) and the Bharatpur (or Keoladeo) Bird Sanctuary near Agra. Manas is also home to the endemic Golden Langur, the Bengal Florican and the Pigmy Hog, besides many other wild animals like the one-horn Indian rhinoceros, wild buffalo, tiger, gaur, elephant and many other species.

The Manas River (or the Beki, as it is called in the lower reaches - shown above) and the rugged hills of Bhutan to the north define the National Park to a signicant extent. Thus Manas offers a variety of wildlife habitats, from riverine forests, to heavy rain-fall and moist deciduous forests, besides extensive grasslands.

Over the years, Manas has witnessed ups and owns, but now the wildlife has made a good come-back. The local settlements have grown and Barpeta Road, once just way-station, is now a bustling town with fly-overs and shopping malls. A number of lodges have come up locally (where there were once only government rest houses), and a variety of facilities are on offer, including river rafting, wilderness walks and jeep safaris in the forest.

Manas National Park is conveniently accessible by train via the rail head of either New Bongaigaon or Barpeta Road, or by air from Guwahati City.

Wet Bengal celebrates Durga Puja

The Durga Puja of West Bengal, the Navaratri of Northern and Western India and Dussehra in both North and South India coincide and is the cause of wide-spread celebrations. This marks the close of the Monsoons and the beginning of the harvesting season for rice. The Durga Puja combines the idea of Uma, the other name for Durga, returning to earth much as married daughters of the house return to visit their ancestral homes at around this time, and the concept of the victory of good over evil, exemplified by Durga slaying the demon, Mahishasur, on the day of Vijaya Dashami. It all starts months earler with the making of the image of the goddess usually at the community-based making of such images at Kumartuli in North Calcutta.

This picture above shows the finished, regular "daker saaj" or the traditional image of the goddess Durga as she is invoked at the celebrations. Another image from some older temples where worship of the goddess takes place on a regular basis, given below, is somewhat different.

Rural Bngal also participates fully in the celebration of the Durga Puja. This picture is of a small puja in a village near Santiniketan, where the image is once again in traditional style.

An old map of Calcutta

Ever since the British East India Company started their commercial operations in Calcutta some times in the last decade of the 17th century they have attempted to study and document the many facets of the city through maps, sketches and paintings. People often refer to the map of Calcutta drawn up in 1792/93 by Upjohn and the one prepared in 1828 by Capt. Prinsep.

Shown above is the Upjohn map of Calcutta.

The Prinsep map is shown above. A chance look at a book on Calcutta by Lord Curzon revealed yet an older map, as surveyed and prepared by Lt. William Wyllie in 1753. That makes it nearly forty year older to that of Upjohn.

This map of Calcutta naturally raises a number of questions. For instance, it shows the famous Dalhousie Square Tank, also known as "Lal Dighi", as being of a rectiangular shape. The position of some of the building such as the Court House, the Church of St. Anne and the original Fort William itself are to be seen in this map. Of course much changed following the attack on Calcutta in 1756 by the forces of Nawab Siraj-ud-daula.

Afghanistan - Hopes for a fresh start?

The latest developments in Afghanistan with the Taliban swiftly taking over the reins of power in that country have put the minds of many people in a tizzy. It is of course too early to say, but watching the body language during interviews and press conferences by Taliban leaders on 16th and 17th August, as also the use of phrases, suggest a certain sobriety in attitude and hence a glimmer of hope that things may be somewhat different this time. Somethings had changed - the twenty years since 2001 had possibly not gone entirely wasted. The TV footage, at least in major cities like Kabul, Herat, Kunduz, Mazar-i-Sharif and others over the last one year or so suggest the rapid steps that the people of Afghanistan have taken to turn this once backward country on the path to modernity. More women , more children are getting educated, better health facilities are coming up. And most interesting of all, if Afghans are playing cricket, there is hope yet. If 2021 is not the same as 2001 for Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Saudi Arabi, then there is little reason to believe that it would go in a contrary direction for Afghanistan. Even though there has been panic, especially in the Kabul airport, there have been no reprisals, no bloodbath, as on date. More than one TV journalist reported that things were fairly quyiet in Kabul, and interestingly some women-folk took out a protest to assert their demands in front of some Taliban militia. All said and done, it is the people of Afghnaistan who will have to decide - and this will take some years - in which direction they would like to take their country free of non-Afghan interference. One is strongly reminded of the repeated demands of Mahatma Gandhi in the 1930s and 40s to the British to leave India free to decide on her way ahead.

Dholavira - Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site!

Although some of the well-known Indus Valley Civilization sites such as Harappa and Mohenjo Daro have come within Pakistan since the Partition in 1947, India herself has a number of excellent examples of the IVC in places such as Lothal, Kalibangan, Dholavira, Ropar, Rakhigarhi and others. Of these Dholavira, which has been dated to about 3000 BCE, has justly been included recently as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Situated in the northern fringes of the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat, about 200 kilometres from the town of Bhuj, Dholavira is approached by a drive of about 4 hours across almost endless salt-flats. On the way, one may well find one of the nomadic families of the Rann on their way to a new destination.

It is best to leave quite early in the morning, as otherwise the drive and the walking around at the site can become quite tiresome. Dholavira is fairly large, somewhat square shaped with one side over 700 metres long, and the other over 600 metres. It is located on a low hillock with its central citadel in the middle and with dwellings on either side somewhat lower down.

Just below the citadel, on the western side, will be found this board with a number of the IVC lettering as specimens. While several scholars have attempted to decipher this, no commonly accepted version has yet been generally ackowldged. The most interesting part of Dholavira are the "step-tanks" at the bottom of the hillock for storing water, partly from the nearby stream, and partly from the rain-water run-off from the top of the hillock, for which stone channels had been made.

All in all, Dholavira fully justifie its designation as a World Heritage site, and hopefully more people will become aware of it and try and visit the location.

Covid Pandemic in India - some useful data

In the week just past, some useful data on the Covid pandemic has emerged from the Indian Council of Medical Rsearch. The first is a clear description of the some of the typical symptoms of Covid. The ICMR study, which seems limited to just about 680 case of Covid infection, apparently found that a total of 482 cases (71%) were symptomatic with one or more symptoms, while 29% had asymptomatic, of the type "SARS-CoV-2" infection. The study indicates that fever (69%) was the most consistent presentation followed by body ache, including headache and nausea (56%), cough (45%), sore throat (37%), loss of smell and taste (22%), diarrhoea (6%), breathlessness (6%) and 1% had ocular irritation and redness. Thus, the warning signs seem to be a relatively low-intensity fever of about 100/101 deg. C for 3 or 4 days accompanied by severe body and joint pain and headache, while the other symptoms may or may not be there in any notable fashion. Obviously a larger sample population for the study would have been even more useful. The other information that has energed indicates that as of 16.07.2021, India has been able to vaccinate about 400 million persons, of whom 79 million have duly received the necessary two dozes of the vaccine.If therefore at least 75% of the total population of about 1.2 billion are to be vaccinated (including children 3/4 years or more) then in the next 5 months, the nation will have to vaccinate about 3 million people per day. That will surely call for a concerted effort. More to the point, in the meantime for the next three or four months each and all of the states will have to follow the Covid precautions rigorously, especially with respect to stricly avoiding any assembly of people, ensuring that wearing the face-mask and hand sanitization are followed scrupulously.

Jaisalmer - A Jewel of Rajasthan

Jaisalmer was not so much in the public eye before the film "Sonar Kella" by the famous director, Satyajit Ray, in 1974 brought it to popular notice. Set as it is at the extreme western extremity of Rajasthan, about 300 kms from the city of Bikaner and about 280 km. from the great fortress city of Jodhpur, Jaisalmer has not been easy of access. Only in the last decade or so, has it been connected by rail directly to Delhi and even later by flights to Delhi and Jaipur. Of course, the Jaisalmer Fort, the famous "sonar kella" or the golden fort, gleaming in the sun with its yellow sandstone construction is the main attraction. Inside the fort, the palace halls and pavilions have their own attraction, and change colours with the shifting sun-light.

But, equally, one often pauses to listen to the playing of the stringed "ravanahatta" by the local musicians to accompany their lilting folk songs. But most people look forward to the drive to and roaming around or taking a camel-ride amid the sand dunes at Sam that are a couple of hours travel from the city. That is an experience all by itself.

The Little Rann of Kutch - a "must" for bird-watcher's

The Little Rann of Kutch (or, LRK for short), in spite of its name, is not really in the district of Kutch, as generally understood. It lies to the south-west of Ahmedabad, much closer to the city of Dhrangadhra than to Bhuj, which lies much farther to the west, and which is taken to be the main city of Kutch. The greater Rann (which is close to Bhuj) and the Little Rann are more than 200 kms distant from one another and are located on either sides of the Gulf of Kutch. The LRK is about 130 kms from Ahmedabad and approachable via the towns of Viramgam and Dasada. There are a number of lodges and resorts around that area. Both the LRK and GRK are subject to incursion of salt water during the Monsoons as they are only about 10 to 12 metres above the mean sea level, and are centres for the production of salt by the simple process of evaporation.

Indian wild ass

Common Cranes in flight The terrain is completely flat in both places, with only the occasional low hillocks standing out against the horizon. But the greater Rann (near Bhuj) is more of grassland while the Little Rann has more of thorny bushes and trees and seveal medium to large water bodies. In consequence,there are more of both bushland birds and waders and other water birds in LRK; following them naturally come many of the raptors. Also to be seen in the LRK are fair numbers of Indian wild ass.

Flamingoes So, overall, a 2-3 days trip to the LRK would be well worth the while for a bird-watcher who would get a fill of a wide range of species to observe and photograph.

A look at the Israel-Palestine Conflict

A brief account of the history of the region may help in understanding the issues. That part of the Middle East is often called the “Fertile Crescent” at it was here that historically the domestication of animals and agriculture is said to have begun, It was at one time taken over by the Babylonian Empire. Later it came under the Persian and the Roman Empires. At that time, till the advent of Islam in the 7th century, the local population was mostly Jews and Christians of different denominations. By the 15th century the region had come under the Ottoman Empire of Constantinople and thus the Islamic Caliphate. For at least six centuries there were only very few Jews living in Palestine and they lived largely in amity with the local Palestinians. It was only in the last decade of the 19th century that an idea of a homeland for Jews was mooted. A visit to Jordan in 2011 brought home the antiquity of the land. The Amman Museum houses relics of the ancient “Ain-Ghazal” (or, “Spring of the Gazelle”) civilization, which goes back to the 10th millennium BCE and is characterized by fairly large human figurines made of some chalky clay with clothes, hair, ornaments, tattoos painted on them and with cowrie-shells for eyes. One can also see the famous site of Petra, which marks, like many other places in the Middle East, the ebb and flow of peoples and conquerors over the millennia. It is said to have been once the centre for the Edomites, who lived around the Dead Sea in the 8th century BCE, more or less contemporary to the Assyrian kings like Sennacherib (705 BCE). It later became the capital of the Nabataean people sometime in the fourth century BCE that was able to fend off Greek incursions in the following century, and finally came under Roman occupation by the first century BCE.

A picture of Nabatean rock dwellings of 4th century BCE at Petra

A picture at Medinat Habu in Luxor (Egypt), the funerary memorial to the pharaoh, Rameses II, who in the 16th century BCE conquered Sinai and adjoining areas Jewish history takes note of the “diaspora” or the dispersal of large sections Jews following the repeated invasions and take-over by empires, to distant lands of Iraq, Iran, Poland and East and Central Europe, as well as into Russia. There was no Jewish state in the modern sense since the days of King David in the Biblical times more than 2000 years ago. By the end of the 19th century, the repeated anti-Jewish “pogroms” in Russia, Poland and elsewhere, led some Jewish leaders to revert to their old land in and around Jerusalem. Thus it is found that in 1918 the British Foreign Secretary, David Balfour, making a statement recommending the provision of land in Palestine for Jews, while also urging accommodating the non-Jews living for many centuries in the land. It was about 50 years later, when the world learnt more about the Jewish “holocaust” in World War II that a move was made to accommodate the Jews in a part of Palestine. This was followed in 1947 by an UN resolution that suggested a partition of the land with the creation of two independent and sovereign Arab and Jewish states, giving about 54% of the land to the Jews and stipulating that the city and surroundings of Jerusalem (claimed by both the Jews and Arabs) would remain under international supervision. The Arabs were of the view that the UN lacked any jurisdiction and mandate to partition the land and did not accept the resolution in 1947. This led to the Arab-Israeli wars in 1948 and again in 1967, when Israel acquired further territory in Golan Heights and West Bank of Jordan River.

Picture of Jerash, a Roman settlement in Jordan, dating to 1st century CE. The proximate causes of the frequent Arab-Israeli conflict in Palestine owes itself to the progressive extension of Jewish settlements in the occupied lands and the imminent take-over of Jerusalem by the Jews. This throws up two important issues: (1) the jurisdiction and legality or conformity with international precedence and practice of the UN resolution of 1947 partitioning Palestine, and (2) the legality in international law and the UN Charter (besides any moral basis to it) of Israeli occupation of Palestinian lands acquired as fruits of war.

"India - Searching for the Present in the Past" - a thumb-nail history of India

The book "India - Searching for the Present in the Past", recently published by CinnamonTeal Design and Publishing, considers the age-old fascination for the ancient in Indian culture. Basically, the purpose of this work is to inquire, state, discuss and argue about the past and the present, about the evolution of these thoughts and beliefs, in keeping with the basic traditions in India. And that is part of a great tradition, dating back to the dialogue between sage Yajnavalka and his wife Maitreyi as documented in the Brihadaranyaka Upanishad, or to the furious debates that Adi Shankaracharya engaged in during his travels throughout India to propagate his thoughts on Advaitavad, or “non-dualism”. It enables the readers quickly to traverse much of the course of the Indian history, from pre-historic times through the Indus Valley Civilization, the Buddhist Age, down to the Mughal and British administrations. The book goes on to consider various aspects of the Indian political and social scenario over the last two or three decades and looks at whether and to what extent the present stream of thoughts and beliefs may be considered a fair extension of the past. Hopefully, this work would help to widen one’s knowledge and perspective and provide a modicum of understanding.

The book is now available from Dogears Bookshop of CinnamonTeal, as well as from Amazon, Google and Barnes and Noble. https://www.thedogearsbookshop.com/shop/books/non-fiction/history/india-searching-for-the-present-in-the-past/ https://www.amazon.in/India-Searching-Present-Prosenjit-Dasgupta/dp/9387676846 https://books.google.co.in/books/about/India_Searching_for_the_Present_in_the_P.html?id=LW0qzgEACAAJ https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/india-searching-for-the-present-in-the-past-prosenjit-dasgupta/1138643871?ean=9789387676848

"God's own Country" - "Theyyam" ceremony at Parasinikaduvu

Kerala is widely renowned and publicized as "God's Own Country". This is both literal and metaphorical - as Kerala is wonderfully beautiful, as God's own country should be. But it is so also in the literal sense as it is dotted with shrines and temples to so many gods, some known and many not so well-known outside of Kerala. The "Theyyam" ceremony is to be widely seen in the northern region of Kerala, near and around Kannur and Thalassery. It is said the word "theyyam" is derived from the word "daivam" and it is basically an invocation of a major god of the Hindu pantheon, such as Vishnu or Shiva or Bhagavati or of some lesser-known god, such as Muthuappan. Parasinikaduvu is situated about 30 kms from Kannur town and is a major venue of the "theyyam" ceremony. It commences in the evening and goes on for 3/4 hours with a series of rituals and chantings, enlivened by the music of the "chhenda", or the long drum popular in Kerala, and the nadeswaram, or a sehnai-like wind instrument.Here the rituals are for the folk god, Muthuappan.

This picture shows the votive lamps at the Parasinikaduvu ceremony in December 2012.

As may be seen in this picture, the priests usually wear a special head-dress and garments for the ceremony and often hold a sword in the hand. It is said that the priest often goes into a trance and is able to tell the future and fortunes of a devotee who approaches him at the time. A visitor from out of state would find the Theyyam ceremonies of much interest,

The New Farm Laws in India - A Consideration

The Farmers (Empowerment and Protection and Farm Services) Act, was gazetted in the Gazette of India New Delhi, the 27th September, 2020 and takes effect from 5th June 2020. The Statutory Rules for this Act are however yet to be notified and placed before Parliament. These new laws have evoked considerable controversy and debate. While the Government of India has claimed that the new farm laws would help the farmers, it is seen that the farmers are denying this claim and to the contrary publicly stating that these new laws would harm them. Under the circumstances, it is important that those interested or concerned about this development should find out for themselves as to what is what. The new Farm Laws are available to download from the Internet and individual citizens and the press are free to study these and make their views known. A preliminary study of the new farm laws indicates — (a) some points need clarity in the “definitions” clause. For instance, the definition of “farmer” is defective – it mentions only “individual”, who may not be an Indian at all, but may be a foreigner. It is not clearly provided that farmer should be “an individual citizen of India”, personally engaged in and supervising the farming activities. The term “Farming” is also not defined , e.g. as use of personally-held or family-held agricultural land, for production of cereal crops, pulses, oil seeds, cotton, jute, sugar cane and specifically excludes, large organized plantation industries like tea, coffee, spices, coconut, areca-nut, cashew nut, etc. ”Farmers Produce Organization” is not clearly defined. The role and function of the so-called “Sponsor” organization is also not defined and apparently merely either replaces the current middlemen or are middlemen by a different name. Certain terms used in the Act have not been defined, e.g. “farm gate” (b) there is reliance on legally enforceable agreements or contracts and this may pose serious problems for the small and marginal farmers (if not most farmers across the board) in understanding and implementing such agreements as most of them are not so literate as to understand legal provisions; (c) Clause 13 of the new Act realted to Dispute Settlement.This provides that representation of parties shall be “fair and balanced”. This is vague and may again lead to unnecessary litigation. This should be re-worded to provide for three members of a Conciliation Board and two members each representing farmers/FP and the buyers and that the majority view of the Board shall ordinarily prevail. (d) Clauses 16 to 20 provide that any decision that any government agency may take in respect of any dispute arising from such agreements cannot be challenged in a court of law.This is a deviation from most laws that do provide for an appeal procedure in a court of law or a tribunal. On the practical side, the small and marginal farmers who form the bulk of the farming community in terms of numbers, usually have just 4–5 acres of land and are therefore engaged more or less in family-based subsistence farming with little or no surplus grain to be sold in the market. Their “staying power” is limited and they often get into debt in case of crop failure. On the other hand, it is the larger farmers who have surplus rain for the market, but they also have higher costs because of labour employed, diesel or electricity costs for pumping water, use of fertilizers and pesticides, etc. They also need a reasonable return on their fixed and variable costs to be able to sustain production year after year. Hence the importance of MSP, which has been in operation for over 40 years and has sustained growth in cereals output - the foundation of “food security” in india - over these years. There is a need also to boost oil -seeds and lentils production in the country, which may also require some sort of MSP. Thus there is a need to study the new farm laws at first hand and to engage in informed debate and discussion.

Stained Glass in Kolkata churches

The art of "stained gass" in which molten glass is stained in small batches with mineral colours and is later assembled into large pictorial windows, was imported from Europe into India in the 18th and early 19th centuries, and especially into Kolkata, which at that time was the centre of the British administration.

This picure is of the stained glass to the right of the alter at the St. John's Church on Council House Street near BBD Bag in Kolkata.

The stained glass window at St. Thomas' Church on Middleton Row close to Park Street in Kolkata, is quite large and colourful.

Bird-watching in the Sukhna area

The old Hill Cart Road takes one past the small town of Sukhna on the norther fringes of main rail-head for North Bengal at New Jalpaiguri. Then the road climbs past the village of Rongtong and passes - with the tracks of the narrow-guage Darjeeling Himalayan Railay weaving in and out - past other villages like Chunabhati, Tindharia, Ghayabari up and up till it reaches the famous hill-station of Drajeeling after a total of about 55 kilometres. Most people travel to the Drajeeling hills to watch the sun rise and set on the snows of the Kanchenjungha Range. But some people take it into their heads to do bird-wtching for interesting species in the lower foot-hills in the Sukhna-Rongtong area. Since this is close to the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary,"anything is possible". And it is the "surprise" element that makes it all the more interesting: while looking casually at a common species suddenly one can catch the glimpse of of something different, something new.

The trip to the Sukhna- Rongtong- Mahananda in March 2021 after over a year of Covid restrictions was certainly envigorating.

Birdwatching at Manglajodi

There are quite a number of good birdwatching areas in India and a very good site for water birds in Eastern India is the Manglajodi site. This is one of the back-waters of the Chilka Lake and is located near the town of Bhubaneshwar in Odisha. Thus it is about six hours train journey from Kolkata and about an hour's journey by vehicle to reach there. It can well be combined with a visit to the temple city of Pur, which is not far away, and the archaeological sites near Bhunabeshwar. It was once a well-known site for poaching of birds but thanks to efforts of Shri Nanda Kishore Bhujbal, a local enthusiast, the poachers were persuaded to become conservationists and thus the Shri Bhagwan Mahavir Pakshi Raskha Samity was formed in 2010. Since then the birds have been provided with strict protection and many of the local men have become boatmen and guides. They have come to acquire excellent knowledge of the habits of birds and the habitat and can make a good living with the stream of bird-watchers and tourists coming to the location.

Thesew few pictures will convey the sense of the nature of the habitat of Manglajodi and the rich birdlife that it offers.

Karla - An unfrequented Buddhist site

While tourists throng to places like Sarnath and Sanchi to visit places noted in history and lore of Buddhism, Karla, which just about forty kilometres from Pune in Maharashtra, just off the main Pune-Mumbai highway, is far less frequented. And yet Karla boasts of a history dating back to the 2nd century BCE, when Buddhism was fast spreading into peninsular India. Of course, the approach to Karla is over a fairly long stone stairway and "senior citizens" will need to take this carefully.

The picture above shows the front facade of the Karla cave with its distinctive architecture and entrance-way.

The "chaitya" hall, or where the Buddhist monks once assembled for prayers more than two thousand years ago, is fairly large and is marked by a stupa to designate the impression of the Buddha, while overhead the roof is sculpted in imitation of the wooden rafters that were used even earlier for such prayer halls. Along the two sides are pillars with capitals similar to those in Ajanta and other Buddhist sites, and marks the places where monks used to sit for the prayers.

Indian economic development - some fresh thoughts

There had been times when a GDP growth of 3.5 or 4% per annum in India was thought to be remarkable. Nowadays, people feel somehow disappinted if the growth rate registers 7.5% rather than 8%. There had been times when inflation had been over 25% in a year (and the people have had to live with it). Presently, even a 10% inflation rate is popularly unacceptable. For the Reserve Bank of India, the target is to keep inflation within about 6%. Gone are the times when one had to wait for days to get a cement permit sanctioned for building construction or even to make an outstation call to a relative or to queue for hours to get a berth reervation in a train. Now's the time for messages "at the speed ofight", with the wi-fi or "hot-spot" willing, on-line pruchases of most commidities, and on-line train reservations. This did not happen overnight. But how did it at all happen? To get a glimpse of this, have a look at the book "Eco Yatra", published by Tata McGrawHill - this speaks of traversing the path of India's economic change for the last six decades. It tells the story of how this change took place over the last 60 years or so, when in 1952 Jawaharlal Nehru presented the nation with the First Five Year Plan with an investment plan of just Rs 2,070 crore (in comparison, the Tenth Plan 2002-2007 had an outlay of Rs 1,484,131 crore). It sifts through hard economic data, while bringing out the broad trend lines, without losing sight that economic development also has an underlying human dimension. Thus, at one level, the book traces the changes that impacted the people at a human level; at another, it takes the reader past the major milestones on the road to economic change over the last 60 years; not in a bookish way, but as a chronicle of national and individual aspirations and achievements.

Copies of the book are available with Amazon. Check at -- -- https://www.amazon.in/Eco-Traversing-Indias-Economic-Decades/dp/0070680698/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&qid=1612095758&refinements=p_27%3AProsenjit+Das+Gupta&s=books&sr=1-6

"Tracking Jim" - Notes on Jim Corbett, the famous hunter of man-eating tigers

The Corbett National Park, originally called the Hailey National Park when it was set up in 1930s, has been re-named after the famous hunter, Jim Corbett, who had lived practically all his life in the hills and foot-hills of Nainital in Uttarakhand. The family lived at Gurney House in Nainital in the summer months, coming down to the village of Kaladhungi (also called Chhota Haldwani), in the foot-hills, for winter. The Gurney House and the Kaladhungi bungalow have now been turned into museums in memory of the renowned hunter. It was also in the neighbourhood of Kaladhungi that Corbett had his first initiation in the ways of the jungle under his elder brother, Tom, who was in the Indian Postal Service. Corbett has written of these experiences in his two books, "Jungle Lore" and "My India" though there are some glimpses also in his other books.

Above is a picture of Gurney House, situated at Ayarpata, up on the hillside on the southewestern side of Nanital Lake. And given below is a picture of Corbett's bungalow at Kaladhungi, which has now been turned into a museum by the Forest Dept., Govt. of Uttarakhand. Kaladhungi is siutated on the road almost mid-way between the towns of Haldwani and Ramnagar.